Sunday, October 31, 2010
The Elegant Universe (NOVA / PBS Special) - Part 3 of ?
From the PBS documentary, 'The Elegant Universe' an interesting documentary about String Theory. There is a nice explanation about Gravity vs Electomagnetism around the 5:35 mark.
A Look Behind the Second Step
Science and Sustainability
Ok, I started to write this week's installment on xeriscaping, which concerns soil, and soil amendments. However I got sidetracked by the science behind the soil. What can I say? Science interests me. Besides, human beings are at a point in their evolution where we are able to see the impact we are having on the world around us, thanks to the science. Sustainability is applying the science to even the most routine tasks, with the goal of lessening our presence.
<Insert Pun on Dirt and Soil Here>
Once you have layed out the design for your water-saving landscape, you should turn your attention to the soil. Soil plays a large role in any landscape, and musn't be overlooked by the eager sustainable gardiner.
Hydrology + Geology =? (Warning, Scientific Content)
Soil is more than just tiny rocks. This is what separates Earth from the moon! (Aside from atmosphere, and water, and the lower gravity and, quite a lot of things actually ...) The worn-down rocks, as it were, classified by size, are called 'regolith', and this is the substance that coats the moon.
The classification of soil particles are sand, silt and clay, sand being the largest, while clay is the smallest. However, delving into technicality, some clay particles can fall into the silt size, while some silt particles can be as small as clay. So what is the difference there? Well, sand and silt are formed by the physical and chemical weathering of rocks, while clay is formed by chemical processes that form solutes (molecules and substances that don't dissolve in water).
Right about now you are probably thinking: Why do I care? I have a point, I promise. The size of the particles in your soil dictates how quickly water drains away! Larger particles, such as sand, and even gravel, create large porous areas, and this allows water to escape quickly, whereas smaller particles will retain water longer. Yet is not just easy access formed by those large pores that encourages water evacuation. Clay has an overall greater surface area, that makes the water stick to it, which helps retention.
I know, I know, it sounds crazy, but this is the principle by which golf greens are formed. The water is stuck to the soil particles through the Electromagnetic Forces (EM), and pulled away by Gravity. EM is stronger than gravity, which is easily demonstrated:
Jump. Gravity pulls you down to the ground, but you don't go any further. If gravity was the strongest force, you would continue falling to the centre of the earth. The electromagnetic forces formed by the molecules in your feet are repelling the EM of the molecules in the ground. The repelling action of these miniscule particles is enough to combat the gravity of the entire planet. It turns out that gravity is quite weak.
Soil = Regolith + Organic Matter
Organic matter can be formed from anything, both decaying plant and animal remains. Organic matter has many functions in the soil, and the content of organic matter can dictate the difference between sucess and failure when it comes to plant growth. The organic matter improves water and nutrient storage, as well as creating optimal conditions for nutrients in the soil to become available. (Humus is slightly acidic, and a change in pH can alter the rate of solubility of nutrients.) Organic matter will also create aggregates in soil, which can improve permeability - water will be absorbed more easily.
Tune in Next Week
So how can this be applied to water conservation? Next week I will take a look at different amendments, and how they can be tools in xeriscaping, as well as the pros and cons of each one.
Ok, I started to write this week's installment on xeriscaping, which concerns soil, and soil amendments. However I got sidetracked by the science behind the soil. What can I say? Science interests me. Besides, human beings are at a point in their evolution where we are able to see the impact we are having on the world around us, thanks to the science. Sustainability is applying the science to even the most routine tasks, with the goal of lessening our presence.
<Insert Pun on Dirt and Soil Here>
Once you have layed out the design for your water-saving landscape, you should turn your attention to the soil. Soil plays a large role in any landscape, and musn't be overlooked by the eager sustainable gardiner.
Hydrology + Geology =? (Warning, Scientific Content)
Soil is more than just tiny rocks. This is what separates Earth from the moon! (Aside from atmosphere, and water, and the lower gravity and, quite a lot of things actually ...) The worn-down rocks, as it were, classified by size, are called 'regolith', and this is the substance that coats the moon.
 |
| No gardens here! |
The classification of soil particles are sand, silt and clay, sand being the largest, while clay is the smallest. However, delving into technicality, some clay particles can fall into the silt size, while some silt particles can be as small as clay. So what is the difference there? Well, sand and silt are formed by the physical and chemical weathering of rocks, while clay is formed by chemical processes that form solutes (molecules and substances that don't dissolve in water).
 |
| Volcanic Soil |
Right about now you are probably thinking: Why do I care? I have a point, I promise. The size of the particles in your soil dictates how quickly water drains away! Larger particles, such as sand, and even gravel, create large porous areas, and this allows water to escape quickly, whereas smaller particles will retain water longer. Yet is not just easy access formed by those large pores that encourages water evacuation. Clay has an overall greater surface area, that makes the water stick to it, which helps retention.
I know, I know, it sounds crazy, but this is the principle by which golf greens are formed. The water is stuck to the soil particles through the Electromagnetic Forces (EM), and pulled away by Gravity. EM is stronger than gravity, which is easily demonstrated:
Jump. Gravity pulls you down to the ground, but you don't go any further. If gravity was the strongest force, you would continue falling to the centre of the earth. The electromagnetic forces formed by the molecules in your feet are repelling the EM of the molecules in the ground. The repelling action of these miniscule particles is enough to combat the gravity of the entire planet. It turns out that gravity is quite weak.
Soil = Regolith + Organic Matter
 |
| Soil Horizons O = organic matter A = top soil B = sub soil C = unweathered rock |
Really then, what makes the soil is the organic matter, or humus that is found within. Organic matter is broken down residues of life. Like Mufasa explained to Simba, 'when we die, our bodies return to the ground, and nourishes the grass, and the antelopes eat the grass, therefore we are all part of the Circle of Life'. Cue inspiring musical number. (Of course, due to modern undertaking processes, human bodies are more preserved, and don't break down nearly as quickly, but that is another matter altogether.)
Organic matter can be formed from anything, both decaying plant and animal remains. Organic matter has many functions in the soil, and the content of organic matter can dictate the difference between sucess and failure when it comes to plant growth. The organic matter improves water and nutrient storage, as well as creating optimal conditions for nutrients in the soil to become available. (Humus is slightly acidic, and a change in pH can alter the rate of solubility of nutrients.) Organic matter will also create aggregates in soil, which can improve permeability - water will be absorbed more easily.
Tune in Next Week
So how can this be applied to water conservation? Next week I will take a look at different amendments, and how they can be tools in xeriscaping, as well as the pros and cons of each one.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
The Five Elements of a Japanese Garden
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| Tokyo Tower: Godzilla's favourite target |
Japanese gardens appear to be simpler than your average English Perennial Border. Of course, there isn't a lot of room in Japan, where the perennial border requires a lot of space. Now, you might be looking at a map, and thinking that Japan and the UK seem to be about the same size, or you might be looking at numbers, and thinking that Japan is actually larger, so what am I talking about? The fact is, however, that much of Japan (about 80%) is taken up by mountains, and the space that is actually habitable is much smaller.
Another aspect of Japanese gardens is the lines. The lines of the plants and even the ground (think: Zen Garden) are very defined, and ususally perpendicular. Simple, yet striking.
In a true Japanese garden, there are always five elements that represent ... well, the five elements.
Water
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| A nice, soothing waterfall |
Practically, if you are going to add a water feature, it is necessary that you keep it moving. Standing water is a breeding ground for mosquitos, potentially exacerbating diseases such as West Nile Virus.
Additionally, the sound of water is soothing, and a nice addition to any landscape, or area of leisure.
Earth
Earth is represented by relatively large stones, arraged around the landscape. Again, the object is to look natural, although interesting rock formations have been known to happen in nature.
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| Earth and Fire |
Rocks can be used as natural margins or benches, especially in conjuction with a pond. Trailing plants can be used to great effect, and alpine plants blend in naturally with the landscape.
In drier places, landscapers are opting to create rockier designs to minimize turf, and lessen the need for irrigation. However, rocks will retain the heat better than the soil, helping the water to evaporate. A point of balance must be struck.
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| Stone Lanterns at a Shrine |
Fire
A stone lantern represents the element of fire. At night, the lantern may be lit, providing light to the landscape. A single lantern is all that is necessary for a garden, although many lanterns can have an interesting effect.
If you are apprensive about having lit lanterns in your backyard, there are products available that can be lit artificially. (Disclaimer: it is just a website I found by Google. I do not endorse it, nor am I getting any money to link to it.)
Sky
Funnily enough, the sky is also represented by water. Specifically a pond, which reflects the sky above it. Combined with the waterfall, this can make for a nice water feature in any landscape.
Wind
Finally, we come to wind. Wind is represented by the black pine, another symbol that might have you thinking 'What?' Well, it is hard to showcase something that is invisible, but the wind blows through the needles of the black pine, giving away its presence.
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| Artistically Uneven |
Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii) grows in USDA zones 6-8. Needle burn will occur at -23°C, meaning that this is not a plant that will thrive (or even, you know, live) in Canada. In fact, the plant is loved for its salt tolerance in the coastal United States, but lately it has been tormented by pests. Dirr describes the habit as 'artistically uneven', which is the effect needed for the landscape. In warmer p
arts of Canada (like Ontario) the Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) may be substituted. In colder areas Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana) might do.
arts of Canada (like Ontario) the Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) may be substituted. In colder areas Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana) might do.Anything Else?
Of course, there are other things that we might associate with such a garden. March to April is the time of the 'Sakura' or Cherry Blossoms, the subject of many festivals. June, the rainy season, is also when the irises grow. Bamboo is an interesting staple, although again, the hardiness of that plant in Canada leaves a lot to be desired. Then, there is water feature prevalent in the gardens of the wealthy, according to many different media: the shishi-odoshi or "the thing that goes doink". (Disclaimer: the preceding link may ruin your life.)
Sunday, October 24, 2010
The First Principle of Xeriscaping
The Summer Blockbuster
There are seven main principles connected with Xeriscaping. The first is to design your garden. Sounds simple enough, really, even silly to those of us in the Landscape Design Profession. However, this instruction is not concerned about the aesthetic of the design, but that you design with conservation in mind.
Know the Site
Before you put pencil to paper (or mouse to Autocad) you should know the different aspects of the site you are designing for. Where does it get the most sun? Is there exposure from the wind? Where does your weather come from? (In Canada, the weather tends to come from the west, although this is not always true.)
Are there trees offering shelter from the wind, or shade? What is the soil like? (Very important, and I will be addressing that at a later date.) How do existing slopes influence the drainage? Other elements we have to address in Canada include snow load. Will plantings be destroyed by snow in the winter, or our cheerful friend, the snowplow driver. Maybe salt on the road will find its way to your yard. Don't forget to incorporate your desires as well. Where is the nicest view? Do you need pathways and patios? Do you want an area for recreation, perhaps for children to play? All these elements will affect your design, but don't be daunted. Sometimes, these constraints will result in a design that you never imagined.
Hydrozoning
Next, you need to designate plantings in zones. Using water in a xeriscape is not a crime, the goal is simply to use less of it. Some areas, such as turf, will naturally need more water than others. All you need to do is plan where these areas are, and create zones. The zone that will recieve the most attention from people should be the "Oasis" zone. The zone that will recieve the least amount of attention will be the "low water use zone". Between them is the "transition zone". Know these zones and designate plant material accordingly. Also, try and work these zones into the natural drainage patterns of the existing landscape. That will be both economically and environmentally beneficial.
There are seven main principles connected with Xeriscaping. The first is to design your garden. Sounds simple enough, really, even silly to those of us in the Landscape Design Profession. However, this instruction is not concerned about the aesthetic of the design, but that you design with conservation in mind.
Know the Site
Before you put pencil to paper (or mouse to Autocad) you should know the different aspects of the site you are designing for. Where does it get the most sun? Is there exposure from the wind? Where does your weather come from? (In Canada, the weather tends to come from the west, although this is not always true.)
Are there trees offering shelter from the wind, or shade? What is the soil like? (Very important, and I will be addressing that at a later date.) How do existing slopes influence the drainage? Other elements we have to address in Canada include snow load. Will plantings be destroyed by snow in the winter, or our cheerful friend, the snowplow driver. Maybe salt on the road will find its way to your yard. Don't forget to incorporate your desires as well. Where is the nicest view? Do you need pathways and patios? Do you want an area for recreation, perhaps for children to play? All these elements will affect your design, but don't be daunted. Sometimes, these constraints will result in a design that you never imagined.
 |
| Adding shade can reduce water loss |
Hydrozoning
Next, you need to designate plantings in zones. Using water in a xeriscape is not a crime, the goal is simply to use less of it. Some areas, such as turf, will naturally need more water than others. All you need to do is plan where these areas are, and create zones. The zone that will recieve the most attention from people should be the "Oasis" zone. The zone that will recieve the least amount of attention will be the "low water use zone". Between them is the "transition zone". Know these zones and designate plant material accordingly. Also, try and work these zones into the natural drainage patterns of the existing landscape. That will be both economically and environmentally beneficial.
 |
| If you have a slope, add terraces to reduce water runoff |
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Sunday, October 17, 2010
The Great Canadian Resource
Crisp, Cool and Refreshing
Most people would agree that Canada is a pretty good country to live in. There are so many things available to its citizens in abundance, that they tend to get taken for granted. Free Healthcare, decent (and straight!) roads, large supermarkets with many different ingredients that are open at insane hours, houses that are build to withstand below zero temperatures, and have central heating (this is so important to those of us who hate the cold) and loads of fresh water.
Canadians tend to take water for granted in a way that people of other countries cannot afford to. And I am not referring to third world countries, where the addition of a well has the capacity to greatly improve the lives of a village. I am speaking of developed, first world countries, such as Australia and Greece, where getting water to their inhabitents is a problem. Melbourne, for example needs to desalinate water and pipe it in from the ocean (84km away) to meet the demands of the city. Detractors of the plant say that the environmental costs of such an operation are too high.
Unfortunately, Canadians are not as rich in water resources as they might think. Only 7% of the world's fresh water can be found in our, admittedly rather large, country. Then, there is the problem of the density belt. About 84% of Canadians live within 160km of the U.S. border. The greater part of the watershed, however, leads to the Arctic Circle. Water is considered to be a renewable resource, as any schoolkid can tell you, thanks to the hydrological cycle. Yet every time the water goes through the cycle, its quality may be lessened, to the point where it becomes unsafe for consumption or use. Many cities have experienced droughts, especially in hot summers. Canadians are urged to be water-wise, in both aspects of home and work.
Conservation in the Landscape
So how does conservation translate to the landscaping industry? Over the next few weeks, I will be investigating different aspects of Xeriscaping, designing low water landscapes. I will look at how it is achieved in other regions, and how it might be applied to the Canadian climate. Will there be differences in how to proceed? I will look at the hardscaping, the construction and the drainage involved. Then I will look at drought-resistant plants, and the benefits of using native species.
The goal of this will be to apply all of this knowledge to designing a sustainable, low-water landscape in Drumheller, Alberta. Hopefully this process will aid anyone who is interested in doing something similar in their own home, with the goal of conserving water. It is not just the human species who depend on this resource, it is all living things.
Most people would agree that Canada is a pretty good country to live in. There are so many things available to its citizens in abundance, that they tend to get taken for granted. Free Healthcare, decent (and straight!) roads, large supermarkets with many different ingredients that are open at insane hours, houses that are build to withstand below zero temperatures, and have central heating (this is so important to those of us who hate the cold) and loads of fresh water.
Canadians tend to take water for granted in a way that people of other countries cannot afford to. And I am not referring to third world countries, where the addition of a well has the capacity to greatly improve the lives of a village. I am speaking of developed, first world countries, such as Australia and Greece, where getting water to their inhabitents is a problem. Melbourne, for example needs to desalinate water and pipe it in from the ocean (84km away) to meet the demands of the city. Detractors of the plant say that the environmental costs of such an operation are too high.
Unfortunately, Canadians are not as rich in water resources as they might think. Only 7% of the world's fresh water can be found in our, admittedly rather large, country. Then, there is the problem of the density belt. About 84% of Canadians live within 160km of the U.S. border. The greater part of the watershed, however, leads to the Arctic Circle. Water is considered to be a renewable resource, as any schoolkid can tell you, thanks to the hydrological cycle. Yet every time the water goes through the cycle, its quality may be lessened, to the point where it becomes unsafe for consumption or use. Many cities have experienced droughts, especially in hot summers. Canadians are urged to be water-wise, in both aspects of home and work.
Conservation in the Landscape
So how does conservation translate to the landscaping industry? Over the next few weeks, I will be investigating different aspects of Xeriscaping, designing low water landscapes. I will look at how it is achieved in other regions, and how it might be applied to the Canadian climate. Will there be differences in how to proceed? I will look at the hardscaping, the construction and the drainage involved. Then I will look at drought-resistant plants, and the benefits of using native species.
The goal of this will be to apply all of this knowledge to designing a sustainable, low-water landscape in Drumheller, Alberta. Hopefully this process will aid anyone who is interested in doing something similar in their own home, with the goal of conserving water. It is not just the human species who depend on this resource, it is all living things.
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