Wednesday, December 8, 2010

The Christmas Witch

The Christmas Witch

Be quiet, little Children
        Be still; don’t twitch
For coming your way
        Is the Christmas Witch

A gnarled green creature
        With horns on its head
And eyes that flash
        In festive red

The ugliest hag
        That you ever did see,
But she’s bringing lots of presents
        For you and me

From far up north
        On her Snow Shovel
She visits each mansion
        Each apartment and hovel

Be good now Children
        And don’t let her see you
Or she’ll turn you to stone
        Before you can count two

The presents she brings
        Just serve as bait
Under the tree
        She’ll wait and wait

And Oh! Hear the screams
        On Christmas morn!
Hear them running down stairs
        To their parents’ scorn

Will the witch be there?
        Is it you she has chosen
To grace her garden
        A gnome forever frozen

So be quiet little children
        Be still; don’t twitch
Coming tonight
        Is the Christmas Witch.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Taking Inspiration from an Irish Garden

Gardening and landscaping are approached differently everywhere you go.  I like to seek out new methods of creating a garden, to find inspiration.  This week, I am looking to Ireland, the land of Saints and Scholars (and Guinness).
90% of Canadians live within 160km of the US border
It took me a few visits to Ireland to figure out what was different about the typical gardens there.  Compared to the North American landscapes I am familiar with, which tend to contain a good mix of deciduous, coniferous and herbaceous material (in relatively equal quantities), or even the ubquitous standard of the English perennial border, there was something distinctive. 


Edmonton is roughly the same latitude as Dublin
 For a climate that can sustain a wide variety of shrubs, roses and even palm trees (for all that it is further to the north than most of the population of Canada), Ireland is a country that tends to use mainly evergreens in the landscape. 

Now, according to Residential Landscape Architecture, too many conifers 'create a dark, sombre mood' (p 361).  Irish gardens, however, use different colours and textures to great effect, and there is no darkness in the result.

Here is a particularly well done example.
Different tones of green - from yellow to blue can brighten the evergreens and create interest

Add a few deciduous specimens for colour

Also add in a few herbaceous varieties
As you can see, an evergreen garden can be brght, and even colourful. 

Benefits in Canada

Because many of us experience at least four to five months of winter (aside from British Columbia), installing an evergreen garden is a way to have a bit of colour in an otherwise bleak, white, landscape.  When deciduous trees lose their leaves in September, an evergreen garden will keep their foliage year-round. 

Of course, many of us will not be using our gardens in the winter! A landscape can still offer a pleasing vista from our warm windows, however. 

Evergreen gardens offer an interesting alternative from the standard Canadian landscape, and when done right, won't be any more sombre.  It is worth consideration when deciding how your garden will grow.

Monday, November 29, 2010

Snow in your backyard!

Snow Tracking

From the hilarious webcomic xkcd.  Well, it is probably more hilarious if you are a physics major, but oh well.  Maybe it has snowed in your garden this weekend.  Keep an eye out for those pesky Higgs Boson tracks.

Monday, November 22, 2010

David Mitchell deals with Climate Change



What do you think about sustainable practices.  Are they fun?  Or are they something we all just have to buckle down with?

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Proper Plant Selection

In a world where breeders constantly vie to create new and exciting specimens; where garden centres market the fashionable and forget about the tried and true; where plants are transplanted into new climates that may or may not be appropriate, who will stop the madness?

Yes, it is the adventures of Project Sustainability, and the Fourth Principle of Xeriscaping!

Choose Plants that will Survive the Winter


It is true of garden centres, especially the transient variety that spring up in parking lots of big box stores (and I know from experience), that with each season comes a brilliant new specimen, advertised in magazines and insider's reports as the next big thing.  This may or may not be true; unfortunately, the appropriateness of the plant in a landscape must be determined by time, which the plants are unlikely to have had much of.  Another problem with the box store garden centres in certain locales, is that they get their plant material from a different climate, a more conducive climate for plant growth (more profitable nurseries).  While this is fiscally sound, the plants may not be hardened off to colder zones, or even be suitable for a cooler zone at all. 

For example, a great deal of plant material in Ontario comes from the Niagara region, as it is an ideal microclimate, surrounded on two sides by Lake Ontario and Lake Eire, and by the Niagara Escarpment on the third side.  The majority of the material is headed for Toronto, in any case, as it has the greatest population.  In the five hours it takes to travel from Toronto (5b) to Ottawa (5a), however, you enter a colder zone.  If you cross the river from Ottawa into Gatineau, QC (4b), you drop another zone.  Plants will still show up in garden centre that educated employees will have to steer customers away from.

Native vs. Alien

This versus ...

When choosing plant material, it is important to know your climate and enviroment, and choose plants that are appropriate to both.  Evolution is the process where organisms adapt to conditions dictated by selection pressures: plants have evolved to grow in many different conditions.  You just have to choose the ones that are right for your area.  Such plants that are adapted to your climate should thrive in existing soil, and do quite well on rain alone, minimizing the need for amendments and irrigation.


That

Plant material needn't be native to your area either.  If you are bored with the same-old, investigate what gardiners in similar climates use.  You may be surprised, inspired or both.  However, you may also be surprised that quite a few plants that are common in landscapes are in fact native, just appropriated for artistic purposes.

Planting native material for some represents a return to the wild and natural world; following the Greek representation of Arcadia as opposed to the Roman interpretation.  Of course this is a matter of aesthetics, and personal style.  Whatever your landscape ideal, using sustainable practices, and climate-appropriate plants will help ensure that future generations will have a chance to develop their own fashion.

Monday, November 15, 2010

Top Gear Ground Force part 1 (Or; How Not to Design A Garden)



For those of you who are unfamiliar with these programs, Top Gear is a show by the BBC, that generally focuses on cars.  Ground Force is a gardening program.  This was a charity episode where the presenters of Top Gear tried to do what the presenters of Ground Force do.  With ... interesting results.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

The Third Principle of Xeriscaping

Irritation Irrigation

So how can watering your garden, reduce water use in your garden?  Well boys and girls, it is time to learn what the third principle of Xeriscaping is all about!

Today's Post is brought to you by the colour Blue!
The answer is that it is how you water your garden that can reduce the amount that you use.  Overwatering, using water inefficiently and indescriminately are the main problems that can be solved by irrigating wisely.  The goal is to give the plants what they need without wasting water.

The Rain in Spain Falls Mainly on the Plains
Quite Literally

As discussed, the type of soil present greatly affects how quickly the water will be absorbed, and how quickly it will drain away.  Clay soils, where the pores are small, will hold the water longer; however, it takes longer for the water to be absorbed, and if there is a slope present, the water will simply run off.  Sandy soils have a better chance of absorbing the water, but aren't able to hold it for long.  The amount of water that soil will absorb depends on how long the water falls.  A hard and fast summer storm will do little to quench the thirst of your vegetation.  Long and light is the ideal weather.

Be aware of factors such as slope, and local conditions to determine how fast the ground is drying out.  Sun, wind, temperature and local humidity all play a role in how often you need to water.  If you are constructing a garden, use these natural zones to help establish your hydrozoning.  Use or modify the slopes to direct the flow of water into areas that need it, or create terraces to eliminate runoff. 

These practices will maximize the value of every rainfall, reducing the need for additional irrigation.  Catching rain in barrels or containers is also a good practice; this water would likely be lost to the storm sewage system, and eventually the nearest river.  Keeping standing water is a mosquito hazard, unfortunately, so this may not be feasible.

Artificial Water

The best time to water your garden is during the early morning.  This will reduce the volume of water lost to evaporation, as temperature, sun, and air movement are minimal, and humidity is high.  Morning can be a high use time, especially for city neighbourhoods, as the population are getting up for work, and showering.  It is a good idea to know the peak usage times in your area, as well as the capacity of your water supply.  It is possible that the supply is insufficient for both internal and external application, and needs to be staggered.  Using a timer can prevent the need to rise before the sun.

It's hard to see the lake for the trees.
Try to apply water to the soil and not the foliage, as the roots have a better chance of absorbing it there.  Certain plants of the garden can require more water than others, especially when they are young and in the process of establishing themselves.  Trees in the middle of lawns, for example, can experience drought while the grass thrives. 

Irrigation System vs. Hose and Sprinkler

So, is it worth it to install an irrigation system?  These systems are designed to apply optimum amounts of water to specific zones; no more, no less.  They can easily be installed to separate turf and landscape, which have different requirements.  They can even be run on timer programs that can be changed as the season progresses, and the water needs of the plants change.  They take alot of the guesswork away from watering your garden.  Rain gauges exist, that will override the program if there is precipitation.  If it is possible, installing a system is a good idea.  If not, be aware of the different water requirements and zones of your garden, and aim for early morning.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

The Second Principle of Xeriscaping - Soil Amendment



File:SoilTextureTriangle.jpg
And then the bears ate her.
 
As discussed last week, the second step of creating a low-water garden is to address your soil, possibly adding components that will decrease water usage.  Depending on the quality of your soil, or the type of plants you are incorporating into the landscape, soil amendment may not be necessary.  Check the soil.  Ideally, farmers desired a soil profile called 'Loam'.  Loam falls into the Goldilocks Zone of soil particle size.  It is not too sandy, it is not clay.  Loam is just right.  If you are lucky enough to possess loamy soil, then congratulations!  You can go home early and skip this lecture.

Alternatively, you may decide to use plants that are best suited for the soil profile you have.  (This is part of the 4th principle, and will be addressed later.)  If this is the case, then amendments aren't as crucial.  If you have zoned your garden, consider amending the soil to the zone's water requirements.  The low-water zones won't need nearly as much as the oasis zones. 

The goal of amending soil is to make gardening a more sustainable process.  With that in mind, I shall look at a different strategies, and discuss the pros and cons of each.  Not every amendment is truly sustainable, and it is possible that a balance will have to be reached - one between adding to the ground, and preventing water loss.

Inorganic Amendments

Amending the soil through inorganic amendments is basically just changing the soil profile.  This may take a great volume of material, making it a somewhat impractible, and not the most sustainable practice. The materials have to come from somewhere, so by adding them to your ground, you are merely taking the ground from a different location.  Consider also the carbon footprint created from transportation.

Disregarding fertilizer for the moment, these type of amendments rarely offer any nutrient value.  The main reason to add inorganic material is to improve drainage of the existing soil, and gain a better overall texture.  This can be obtained with Sand, Perlite or Vermiculite.  Large quantities of all are needed to effect a change.  Perlite and Vermiculite are quite expensive, and are only short term solutions in the outdoor environment.  Their best use is in a greenhouse environment.

Hydrogels are a relatively new product for soil amendment.  They are polymers designed to increase the water capacity of the soil.  However, the long term consequences of this addition are unknown, and the effect only lasts a few years before the hydrogels are broken down.  Also, addition of hydrogels won't decrease water requirements, only frequency of irrigation.

Fertilizer can be classified as a soil amendment; you do add it to the ground.  Fertilizer adds macro and micro nutrients alike for the plants to take up.  They tend to be water soluble, which means that the plant can absorb them quickly, but also means that they can be washed away.  Unless slow release fertilizers are used, the plant's growth response may be rapid initially, and then slow when the food runs out.  This can be dangerous is some plants; hasty, stretching growth may leave it weak and vulnerable in critical aras.  Fertilizers need to be added at least once a season (depending on the type), and may increase the salinity of the soil.

Organic Amendments


A Carbon-based Life Form

Organic has become a buzzword over the past two decades.  Agriculture and horticulture has embraced the term to an extent.  So has the film industry, though that is neither here nor there.  Chemically speaking, organic refers to anything with carbon in it.  Biologically, this planet has produced carbon-based lifeforms.  In terms of soil amendments, organic means that it was once alive, but is now dead, and broken down.

Specifically, organic matter is in the process of breaking down, and eventually, its effect will be lost, requiring continuous applications.  Still, organic matter comes from natural sources, so it hasn't lost the sustainable hat just yet.


"Cats have Pos"
 Cations are positive ions
The benefits using organic matter for soil amendments include the nutrients they contain, the aggregate-forming properties that improves the workablity of soil.  Organic material can improve the Cation Exchage Capacity, or the ability of soil to attract and store nutrients.  Adding organic matter may also improve the soil's water capacity.  However, that is not confirmed at this point in time.

A compost pile is an excellent source of organic matter, and is inexpensive, as material can come from your home and garden.  This is also a good way to reduce waste.  The important thing to remember when composting is the proper construction of of the pile.  The breakdown of the organic material is done by organisms, and they require certain conditions to survive. 

Be careful not to put diseased plants in the compost pile, as the disease might be able to survive, and then be spread around your garden.

Manure is one of the traditional organic amendments; however, these days, it is not produced in traditional methods, and this has lessened its value.  Fresh manure can burn a landscape, it should be composted or aged before applying it.  As a nutrient source, manure is better than an equal quantitiy of fertilizer, however, the quality of the product depends on many factors, such as the age, the type of animal, and the animal's food source.


File:Amanita muscaria (fly agaric).JPG
Caution: May Contain Pixies
or Bowser
(Photo by Michael Maggs)

Peat Moss will improve the soil structure, however, it is acidic in nature.  It is useful for plants that thrive in acidic environments, though it can be expensive.  Topsoil can be added to the garden, though not all topsoil is equal, and harvesting topsoil is not sustainable.  There is also the possilbility of herbicide contamination, which should be tested for.

Mushroom compost is the material used to grow mushrooms in.  Adding mushroom compost in the fall, before winterizing the garden will help improve the soil's structure, though the mushrooms will have already taken up most of the nutrients. 

Cultural Practices

Simply tilling the soil can have an effect.  Tilling improves aeration and loosens the soil, allowing roots to spread through the soil more easily.  Be careful not to overwork the soil, however, as this will break down aggregates.  The frequency of tilling may also hasten the break down of organic material, necessitating further amendments.

What Does it all Mean?

By properly amending the soil, it is possible to improve the way water moves through it, hopefully decreasing the amount of water you need to maintain your garden.  It is also possible to improve the health of your plants, and healthy plants are better able to survive whatever conditions nature throws at them.


Sunday, October 31, 2010

The Elegant Universe (NOVA / PBS Special) - Part 3 of ?


From the PBS documentary, 'The Elegant Universe' an interesting documentary about String Theory. There is a nice explanation about Gravity vs Electomagnetism around the 5:35 mark.

A Look Behind the Second Step

Science and Sustainability

Ok, I started to write this week's installment on xeriscaping, which concerns soil, and soil amendments.  However I got sidetracked by the science behind the soil.  What can I say?  Science interests me.  Besides, human beings are at a point in their evolution where we are able to see the impact we are having on the world around us, thanks to the science.  Sustainability is applying the science to even the most routine tasks, with the goal of lessening our presence.

<Insert Pun on Dirt and Soil Here>

Once you have layed out the design for your water-saving landscape, you should turn your attention to the soil.  Soil plays a large role in any landscape, and musn't be overlooked by the eager sustainable gardiner.

Hydrology + Geology =? (Warning, Scientific Content)

Soil is more than just tiny rocks.  This is what separates Earth from the moon!  (Aside from atmosphere, and water, and the lower gravity and, quite a lot of things actually ...)  The worn-down rocks, as it were, classified by size, are called 'regolith', and this is the substance that coats the moon.
File:Moon-craters.jpg
No gardens here!

The classification of soil particles are sand, silt and clay, sand being the largest, while clay is the smallest.  However, delving into technicality, some clay particles can fall into the silt size, while some silt particles can be as small as clay.  So what is the difference there?  Well, sand and silt are formed by the physical and chemical weathering of rocks, while clay is formed by chemical processes that form solutes (molecules and substances that don't dissolve in water).
Volcanic Soil

Right about now you are probably thinking: Why do I care?  I have a point, I promise.  The size of the particles in your soil dictates how quickly water drains away!  Larger particles, such as sand, and even gravel, create large porous areas, and this allows water to escape quickly, whereas smaller particles will retain water longer.  Yet is not just easy access formed by those large pores that encourages water evacuation.  Clay has an overall greater surface area, that makes the water stick to it, which helps retention.

I know, I know, it sounds crazy, but this is the principle by which golf greens are formed.  The water is stuck to the soil particles through the Electromagnetic Forces (EM), and pulled away by Gravity.  EM is stronger than gravity, which is easily demonstrated:

Jump.  Gravity pulls you down to the ground, but you don't go any further.  If gravity was the strongest force, you would continue falling to the centre of the earth.  The electromagnetic forces formed by the molecules in your feet are repelling the EM of the molecules in the ground.  The repelling action of these miniscule particles is enough to combat the gravity of the entire planet.  It turns out that gravity is quite weak. 

Soil = Regolith + Organic Matter

File:Soil profile.jpg
Soil Horizons
O = organic matter
A = top soil
B = sub soil
C = unweathered rock
Really then, what makes the soil is the organic matter, or humus that is found within.  Organic matter is broken down residues of life.  Like Mufasa explained to Simba, 'when we die, our bodies return to the ground, and nourishes the grass, and the antelopes eat the grass, therefore we are all part of the Circle of Life'.  Cue inspiring musical number.  (Of course, due to modern undertaking processes, human bodies are more preserved, and don't break down nearly as quickly, but that is another matter altogether.)

Organic matter can be formed from anything, both decaying plant and animal remains.  Organic matter has many functions in the soil, and the content of organic matter can dictate the difference between sucess and failure when it comes to plant growth.  The organic matter improves water and nutrient storage, as well as creating optimal conditions for nutrients in the soil to become available.  (Humus is slightly acidic, and a change in pH can alter the rate of solubility of nutrients.)  Organic matter will also create aggregates in soil, which can improve permeability - water will be absorbed more easily. 

Tune in Next Week

So how can this be applied to water conservation?  Next week I will take a look at different amendments, and how they can be tools in xeriscaping, as well as the pros and cons of each one.

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

The Five Elements of a Japanese Garden

Tokyo Tower: Godzilla's favourite target
Japanese gardens appear to be simpler than your average English Perennial Border.  Of course, there isn't a lot of room in Japan, where the perennial border requires a lot of space.  Now, you might be looking at a map, and thinking that Japan and the UK seem to be about the same size, or you might be looking at numbers, and thinking that Japan is actually larger, so what am I talking about?  The fact is, however, that much of Japan (about 80%) is taken up by mountains, and the space that is actually habitable is much smaller. 

Another aspect of Japanese gardens is the lines.  The lines of the plants and even the ground (think: Zen Garden) are very defined, and ususally perpendicular.  Simple, yet striking.

In a true Japanese garden, there are always five elements that represent ... well, the five elements.

Water

A nice, soothing waterfall
The element of water is represented by flowing water, ususally a waterfall.  In a traditional garden, the landscape must feel as natural as possible, therefore fountains are a rairity.

Practically, if you are going to add a water feature, it is necessary that you keep it moving.  Standing water is a breeding ground for mosquitos, potentially exacerbating diseases such as West Nile Virus.

Additionally, the sound of water is soothing, and a nice addition to any landscape, or area of leisure.

Earth

Earth is represented by relatively large stones, arraged around the landscape.  Again, the object is to look natural, although interesting rock formations have been known to happen in nature. 

Earth and Fire


Rocks can be used as natural margins or benches, especially in conjuction with a pond.  Trailing plants can be used to great effect, and alpine plants blend in naturally with the landscape.

In drier places, landscapers are opting to create rockier designs to minimize turf, and lessen the need for irrigation.  However, rocks will retain the heat better than the soil, helping the water to evaporate.  A point of balance must be struck.



Stone Lanterns at a Shrine


Fire

A stone lantern represents the element of fire.  At night, the lantern may be lit, providing light to the landscape.  A single lantern is all that is necessary for a garden, although many lanterns can have an interesting effect.

If you are apprensive about having lit lanterns in your backyard, there are products available that can be lit artificially. (Disclaimer: it is just a website I found by Google.  I do not endorse it, nor am I getting any money to link to it.)

Sky


Funnily enough, the sky is also represented by water.  Specifically a pond, which reflects the sky above it.  Combined with the waterfall, this can make for a nice water feature in any landscape. 

Wind

Finally, we come to wind.  Wind is represented by the black pine, another symbol that might have you thinking 'What?'  Well, it is hard to showcase something that is invisible, but the wind blows through the needles of the black pine, giving away its presence. 


Artistically Uneven

Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii) grows in USDA zones 6-8.  Needle burn will occur at -23°C, meaning that this is not a plant that will thrive (or even, you know, live) in Canada.  In fact, the plant is loved for its salt tolerance in the coastal United States, but lately it has been tormented by pests.  Dirr describes the habit as 'artistically uneven', which is the effect needed for the landscape.  In warmer parts of Canada (like Ontario) the Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) may be substituted.  In colder areas Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana) might do.
Anything Else?

Of course, there are other things that we might associate with such a garden.  March to April is the time of the 'Sakura' or Cherry Blossoms, the subject of many festivals.  June, the rainy season, is also when the irises grow.  Bamboo is an interesting staple, although again, the hardiness of that plant in Canada leaves a lot to be desired.  Then, there is water feature prevalent in the gardens of the wealthy, according to many different media: the shishi-odoshi or "the thing that goes doink". (Disclaimer: the preceding link may ruin your life.)

Sunday, October 24, 2010

THINGS YOU WON'T HEAR IN A GARDENING PROGRAMME - Mock the Week Series 9 ...

The First Principle of Xeriscaping

The Summer Blockbuster

There are seven main principles connected with Xeriscaping.  The first is to design your garden.  Sounds simple enough, really, even silly to those of us in the Landscape Design Profession.  However, this instruction is not concerned about the aesthetic of the design, but that you design with conservation in mind.

Know the Site

Before you put pencil to paper (or mouse to Autocad) you should know the different aspects of the site you are designing for.  Where does it get the most sun?  Is there exposure from the wind?  Where does your weather come from?  (In Canada, the weather tends to come from the west, although this is not always true.)
Are there trees offering shelter from the wind, or shade?  What is the soil like? (Very important, and I will be addressing that at a later date.)  How do existing slopes influence the drainage?  Other elements we have to address in Canada include snow load.  Will plantings be destroyed by snow in the winter, or our cheerful friend, the snowplow driver.  Maybe salt on the road will find its way to your yard.  Don't forget to incorporate your desires as well.  Where is the nicest view?  Do you need pathways and patios?  Do you want an area for recreation, perhaps for children to play?  All these elements will affect your design, but don't be daunted.  Sometimes, these constraints will result in a design that you never imagined.

Adding shade can reduce water loss

Hydrozoning
 
Next, you need to designate plantings in zones.  Using water in a xeriscape is not a crime, the goal is simply to use less of it.  Some areas, such as turf, will naturally need more water than others.  All you need to do is plan where these areas are, and create zones.  The zone that will recieve the most attention from people should be the "Oasis" zone.  The zone that will recieve the least amount of attention will be the "low water use zone".  Between them is the "transition zone".  Know these zones and designate plant material accordingly.  Also, try and work these zones into the natural drainage patterns of the existing landscape.  That will be both economically and environmentally beneficial.
If you have a slope, add terraces to reduce water runoff

Sunday, October 17, 2010

The Great Canadian Resource

Crisp, Cool and Refreshing

Most people would agree that Canada is a pretty good country to live in.  There are so many things available to its citizens in abundance, that they tend to get taken for granted.  Free Healthcare, decent (and straight!) roads, large supermarkets with many different ingredients that are open at insane hours, houses that are build to withstand below zero temperatures, and have central heating (this is so important to those of us who hate the cold) and loads of fresh water.

Canadians tend to take water for granted in a way that people of other countries cannot afford to.  And I am not referring to third world countries, where the addition of a well has the capacity to greatly improve the lives of a village. I am speaking of developed, first world countries, such as Australia and Greece, where getting water to their inhabitents is a problem.  Melbourne, for example needs to desalinate water and pipe it in from the ocean (84km away) to meet the demands of the city.  Detractors of the plant say that the environmental costs of such an operation are too high.

Unfortunately, Canadians are not as rich in water resources as they might think.  Only 7% of the world's fresh water can be found in our, admittedly rather large, country.  Then, there is the problem of the density belt.  About 84% of Canadians live within 160km of the U.S. border.  The greater part of the watershed, however, leads to the Arctic Circle.  Water is considered to be a renewable resource, as any schoolkid can tell you, thanks to the hydrological cycle.  Yet every time the water goes through the cycle, its quality may be lessened, to the point where it becomes unsafe for consumption or use.  Many cities have experienced droughts, especially in hot summers.  Canadians are urged to be water-wise, in both aspects of home and work.

Conservation in the Landscape

So how does conservation translate to the landscaping industry?  Over the next few weeks, I will be investigating different aspects of Xeriscaping, designing low water landscapes.  I will look at how it is achieved in other regions, and how it might be applied to the Canadian climate.  Will there be differences in how to proceed?  I will look at the hardscaping, the construction and the drainage involved.  Then I will look at drought-resistant plants, and the benefits of using native species.

The goal of this will be to apply all of this knowledge to designing a sustainable, low-water landscape in Drumheller, Alberta.  Hopefully this process will aid anyone who is interested in doing something similar in their own home, with the goal of conserving water.  It is not just the human species who depend on this resource, it is all living things.